80m, 3 pitches.
The slender buttress between South Pipe and North Pipe consists of three tiers of decreasing size. The route is low in the grade with a steep but well protected crux on P2, and it readily comes into condition with the cliff base at 930m and it doesn’t require ice. Start at the lowest point of the buttress.
1. 45m Climb a groove on the left for 10m. Move up and right over some short steps to gain and follow a slabby corner on the right leading to the top of the first tier.
2. 20m The second tier is tackled by a steep corner system in its right wall. The crux is pulling into the base of the corner (old peg in situ). Belay on the knife edge ridge below the third tier.
3. 15m move up and left to gain a short, steep corner leading to the top.
1. 45m Climb a groove on the left for 10m. Move up and right over some short steps to gain and follow a slabby corner on the right leading to the top of the first tier.
2. 20m The second tier is tackled by a steep corner system in its right wall. The crux is pulling into the base of the corner (old peg in situ). Belay on the knife edge ridge below the third tier.
3. 15m move up and left to gain a short, steep corner leading to the top.
Dave Sykes and Peter Davies 24/Mar/2024.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Neil Adams | 15 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: Watch out for loose rock on pitch 2, and apologies to the team on Staghorn Gully who I just missed with a loose block | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Watch out for loose rock on pitch 2, and apologies to the team on Staghorn Gully who I just missed with a loose block |
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Route of Interest
Fingal's Chimney
Grade: VI 7 ***
(Aonach Dubh)