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220m, 4 pitches. An excellent ice climb in a stunning position. To the left of South Pipe Direct and overlooking Staghorn Gully, there is a hanging slab topped by a steep wall. A prominent line of snow drains down to the top of the steep wall and in good conditions a cascade of ice forms. A long pitch of ice leads in a direct line up to the base of the main cascade. The cascade is unlikely to completely touch down but icy mixed climbing, which may not be visible from the corrie floor allows the icefall to be gained with suprising ease.

1. 55m Start from Staghorn Gully directly beneath the cascade (30m right of Postal Strike). Climb 70 degree ice for 25m to an icicle fringe. Climb the icicles (90 degrees for 3 metres) to reach the easier angled slab. Climb this to a belay on the right side of the cascade.
2. 45m Climb an icy corner for 10m to where good rock gear protects a delicate leftwards traverse to gain the main icefall. Climb the icefall for 30m and continue to a rock belay on the right.
3. 60m Regain the easier angled gully and continue in a direct line towards the upper snowfield.
4. 60m Snow slopes lead to the cornice.

Donnie O'Sullivan, Pete Davies, Mike Gardner 12/Feb/2011.


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Route of Interest

Kami-kaze (Winter)

Grade: VI 7 ***
(Beinn Eighe)