P1: Ascend the steepening icy ramp for 40 meters to a 80 degree six meter icewall. Scoot over this and left to belay 10 meters back on wires and a rusty peg at the lower and smaller of two roofs (60m).
P2: Traverse right from belay and attack a short steep bulge to gain a 45 degree snow slope. move up this for 30 meters or so to another wire belay at the back of the scoop (50m).
P3/4/5: Move up and left to the foot of a really nice 60/70 ramp. Belay at the top (50m... ish), or continue round the corner where you might be able to see the summit cornice and up the first snow field passing small buttress on right (50m), and then up to the second snow slope to the top (50m).
Ticklists
Cold Climbs , 3 star Scottish winter , Cold Climbs (slimmed down) , 4 Star Scottish Winter , 3 and 4 star grade V ice routes , Andy Nisbets Definitive of the Grade , Cold Climbs (Scotland) , Winter aspirations , Scottish Winter , 100 Classic Climbs | Scotland Central & Southern Highlands
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Wall of the Early Morning Light, Direct Start
Grade: V 5 ***
(Beinn Bhan)