UKC

45m, 2 pitches. A 45m route, located high up on North Buttress. Originally climbed in 3 pitches, presumably so that all 3 first ascentionists had a bite of the cherry: "As the summer passed, we visited it more and more frequently, until we were climbing there at least once, and sometimes twice, each weekend. We explored the cliff steadily and found not a few charming climbs. We were most successful on North Buttress, where our route-finding culminated in Climax, a 150 ft. Severe route up a tower on the right side of the buttress. It starts in a recess overhung by trees, and goes up a steep and holdless slab, emerging at the foot of the tower. The lower wall of the tower is climbed by a crack, which is the only break in a smooth face, and the climb finishes with a magnificently exposed (though easier) pitch at the corner of the tower." [Source: IMC Journal, Vol3, No2, Winter 1952]

Today, a grotty first pitch leads to good, well-positioned climbing above.

EH Lane, JPO'F Lynam, N Lynam (Shared Leads) 06/Jul/1952.

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