Climbs 27
Rocktype Diorites
Altitude 365m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Alex Mason on the brilliant Release the Hounds. The best sport route in north wales? © rockcat

Crag features

Situated on a hillside above the A55 and boasting some of the best coastal views in North Wales, these buttresses and steep walls are composed of ancient microgranodiorite - a hard and sharp grained yet blocky, volcanic rock. An historic venue with some traditional ridge routes from the '50s. More recently a brilliant 7c and a pair of fine trad test-pieces along with a number of excellent new crags have been developed.
The crags generally face northwestwards and get plenty of afternoon and evening sun. The routes dry very rapidly.

Approach notes

This approach follows the quarry inclines clearly seen heading up and east above the houses of the Pendalar area at the eastern end of Llanfairfechan.

From the A55 take the exit for LLanfairfechan (J15). Turn first left on to Penmaenmawr Road and follow this around the bend at its end, up the hill and bear left to parking at the community hall on the right. This is the designated parking for the Tyddyn Drycin nature reserve. Take the path towards the hillside at the end of the community hall, to the left of a play-ground. Continue to a wide swinging gate at the entrance to the Tyddyn Drycin nature reserve. Immediately turn left on the blue path and follow this up to where it runs along the side of a tall fence on the left. Where the path swings right go left through a hole in the fence with a flap over it and take a scree path for 40 metres to where it is possible to break through the shrubbery and gain a path that leads to an incline. Follow the incline through both stages to an old quarry track which contours east around the hillside. For Fence Buttress and Black Slab go right up a third quarry incline.

The North Wales Limestone guide is incorrect for the approach to Release the Hounds etc. from Llanfairfechan. At the entrance to the country park turn left on the blue path not right.
rockcat - 26/Jul/15
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