180m, 6 pitches.
Starts on small buttress down and right of the main face. With a couple of pitons. From this, cross a couloir to join the main face (bolts) and climb to the summit.
6 pitches: 4a, 4c, 5c (compact rock with "cannelures"), 4c, 5b, 5a (then a short easy section moving together to reach the summit).
Alternates between solide compact limestone and more broken sections.
Belays and pitches are bolted (except P1 just a few pitons), although a few cams and slings can be useful.
Descent: continue along the summit ridge a little to find abseil point (two bolts with rings) on the right (east) side, a few metres below. Take this abseil (about 15m) down to a breche on the ridge. Follow the ridge north a little further then descend steep grassy slope to the right (east) to rejoin the approach.
6 pitches: 4a, 4c, 5c (compact rock with "cannelures"), 4c, 5b, 5a (then a short easy section moving together to reach the summit).
Alternates between solide compact limestone and more broken sections.
Belays and pitches are bolted (except P1 just a few pitons), although a few cams and slings can be useful.
Descent: continue along the summit ridge a little to find abseil point (two bolts with rings) on the right (east) side, a few metres below. Take this abseil (about 15m) down to a breche on the ridge. Follow the ridge north a little further then descend steep grassy slope to the right (east) to rejoin the approach.
Jean-Philippe Cherbonnier, Sylvain Pusnel 2012.
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Route of Interest
Illusion
Grade: 5c ***
(Les Traverses et la Vignette)