Climbs 38
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 12m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Pass The Pigs (E4) at Cribba Head. © Mark Glaister

Crag features

Cribba Head is composed of the finest granite and is home to some bold and difficult testpieces that follow jutting arêtes and featureless slabs.

Cribba Head is located well above the sea, has a sunny aspect and dries very quickly.

Approach notes

Walk out of Treen car park and turn left. Walk along the road for 15m until a footpath to Logan Rock on the left is encountered (care needed to find this). Follow the footpath that heads off rightwards across fields from the initial track, and when at the coast path, turn left and walk towards the next headland. As the path crosses the headland, break right onto a narrow path through gorse, out to Cribba Head. Various paths and scrambling, either left or right (care required), gain the base of the face.

What can I say! From easy to insane 15 meter climbs, with some of the best faces you will see and plenty of spots for top ropes. A great place for all abilities and to push those technical grades. Kernack ** (HVS) is the sort of climb that gets newbies hooked for life, an absolute classic. The only downfall is that one of the most famous climbs in the South Coast area 'Pre-Marital Tension (E6)' is difficult, and not advised, to set up a top rope on. Time to start getting good hey!!
Vaughan Try - 28/May/03
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