UKC

Climbs 35
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 145m a.s.l
Faces S

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Sugar Daddy (6b) at the Crown of Aragon. © Emma Harrington

Crag features

One of San Vito's most iconic crags, especially for those operating in the upper grades who love the steep stuff. The cliff is high on the hillside and clearly visible a from the SP16 as you drive north from Castelluzzo. The climbing is mostly steep on tufas, stalactites and pockets and golden well-featured rock. There are a few routes in the middle grades that tend to be on the more vertical walls but these are of no lesser quality.

This is a crag of huge potential and it is certain that new routes will be added. Curiously most of the current routes were put up in a two week blitz back in 2008.

Approach notes

The parking for all the crags in this area is from a small side road off the SP16 which is difficult to spot. It is approximately 1.7km north of the roundabout in Castelluzzo and is a concrete track on the right, perpendicular to the road. If approaching from the north, then it is approximately 1km south of the southernmost turning towards Macari. The track heads straight towards the central point between Castelluzzo Outdoor Wall and Crown of Aragon and the characteristic face of The Wave should be visible up left. Drive up the track and curve around behind a small house to where the track becomes gravel and some narrow parking bays are located on the left. Leave room for other cars as best you can.

Squeeze very carefully through one of the holes in the fence and head in a southeast direction, keeping the fence to your right. Veer left just after passing a rock pillar. Cairns guide you up the hill, then head right until you reach some derelict barns and a clearing. Continue straight taking the left path (not the fat track) up the hill and over a wall to arrive under the wall below the route All Cats are Black at Night.

Access Advice

Caution!!

This crag was partially re-bolted in 2020. However, hangers are missing on the crux bolts of some routes. As it seems, bolts and nuts don't fit correctly so they get loose and could pop out easily without even a fall. We're trying to get in touch with local developers to correct this issue, but meanwhile, we strongly recommend to check out the routes before climbing them and pay extra attention to loose nuts/hangers

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Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
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