UKC

10m. Start 2m right of a square-cut overhang at 3m, below ledges. Climb up to a wide ledge and up the corner on the left pulling over the blocks.

(From Donegal guidebook)

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User Date Notes
Tazknight24 9 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I tried this route 7/10/2020 - the route is definitely not S - perhaps the topos I have seen are wrong (rock climbing in Donegal, Ian Miller,2015. And in unique assent, both similar) but unless you are starting as you would for ‘Stira’ the start of the route is impossible for an S climber. Little to no gear for the first few meters and no holds apart from a few sugary slopers across that whole lower face. The landing should you slip wouldn’t be pleasant. Pretty sketchy - I’m pushing up from S and starting to climb HS/VS, so I jumped on the route as a warm up and ended up having to down climb from a pretty hairy situation. Just be carful if you do jump on the route. Or better do one of the many other amazing routes haha
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βeta: I tried this route 7/10/2020 - the route is definitely not S - perhaps the topos I have seen are wrong (rock climbing in Donegal, Ian Miller,2015. And in unique assent, both similar) but unless you are starting as you would for ‘Stira’ the start of the route is impossible for an S climber. Little to no gear for the first few meters and no holds apart from a few sugary slopers across that whole lower face. The landing should you slip wouldn’t be pleasant. Pretty sketchy - I’m pushing up from S and starting to climb HS/VS, so I jumped on the route as a warm up and ended up having to down climb from a pretty hairy situation. Just be carful if you do jump on the route. Or better do one of the many other amazing routes haha

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Route of Interest
Unequivocal Ceasefire Two

Grade: S 4a ***
(Eglish)

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