UKC

15m. Poor and only really of historical interest being one of the first routes done on the crag, the rotting sling around the dead sapling in the upper groove feels quite symbolic. I started about 4m right of the groove forming the right end of the overhang climbing a loose corner to the second grassy ledge and then traversed left along this into the upper groove with the dead sapling and finished up this on dubious rock (avoiding the prominent coffin). The lower part of the route is quite bold with uninspiring gear. It is possible to start directly below the upper groove and climb directly into it via a couple of worrying grassy mantles at about HS 4a, the rock is better but the gear is not.

Lionel Howarth, Brian & Aileen Evans 15/Jan/1961.

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Nirvana

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Pot Scar)

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