45m, 2 pitches.
Rockfax Description
Easier than it looks. The start below the centre of the small cave - usually marked by some threads.
1) 5c, 30m. Climb straight over the roof then follow the crack (threads) to a ledge at the base of a wide chimney. Step right and climb the wall just right of the chimney until forced into it at its top. Move up right to belay on a ledge just left of Rollerwall.
2) 5c, 15m. Step back left and climb directly up the wall above (peg on the first ascent). © Rockfax
FA. P.Donnithorne, C.Ryan 28/May/1995.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Misha | 1 Jun, 2024 |
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βeta: Cleared a load of choss from the cave above the chossy chimney but there’s still loose stuff there, so it’s best to avoid it altogether by going further right towards / into Rollerwall to get onto the belay ledge. There is also a large block precariously perched at the bottom of the chimney, a little above the last thread. I couldn’t move it but it’s only just wedged in, so needs removing with a crowbar. I’m not entirely convinced about the solidity of the blocks below including the ones with the threads, I’d avoid this route for now until someone’s been down it with a crowbar. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Cleared a load of choss from the cave above the chossy chimney but there’s still loose stuff there, so it’s best to avoid it altogether by going further right towards / into Rollerwall to get onto the belay ledge. There is also a large block precariously perched at the bottom of the chimney, a little above the last thread. I couldn’t move it but it’s only just wedged in, so needs removing with a crowbar. I’m not entirely convinced about the solidity of the blocks below including the ones with the threads, I’d avoid this route for now until someone’s been down it with a crowbar. |
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| Ramon Marin | 18 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: Extreme care needed in the belay of pitch one. i pulled a massive block that killed my friend | βeta? | |
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βeta: Extreme care needed in the belay of pitch one. i pulled a massive block that killed my friend |
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| John Alcock | 7 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: MUCH easier than it looks,the insitu threads make an inviting target. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: MUCH easier than it looks,the insitu threads make an inviting target. |
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Route of Interest
Cave Heart
Grade: E3 5b ***
(Mount Sion West)