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42m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb and unusual route which is the most popular on the wall. It is actually considerably more strenuous than it looks, mainly because the cracks aren't the correct width for good jams. Start at the lower right-hand side of the wall, three metres left of a wide chimney with a large wedge of solid rock in it.
1) 5c, 25m. Climb up steep juggy rock to the base of the crack laced wall. Pull into the crack and paddle your way up it with a slight leftwards detour where it gets tricky. Continue to the blocky recess to belay. A powerful pitch that will feel 6a if at all damp.
2) 5b, 20m. Move up to a ledge on the left then climb straight up the cracks above. After 6m move left to a spike in a recess (on Rollerwall). Finish by passing the bulge above on its left. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, G.Lewis 23/Mar/1980.

Ticklists

101Pembroke Extremes, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

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User Date Notes
John Alcock 7 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Desperately strenuous..particularly if damp. One reachy move on sloppy jams used to stop E3 leaders dead... E4 is probably about right
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Desperately strenuous..particularly if damp. One reachy move on sloppy jams used to stop E3 leaders dead... E4 is probably about right

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 12
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Ground Up
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Under the Influence

Grade: E4 6a ***
(The Castle)