Rockfax Description
An amazing route with contrasting pitches especially the final pull through the roof crack! Take wires and some cams.
1) 3c, 25m. Climb up the easy slab - some long run outs.
2) 5c, 35m. Go up the slab - bolts - then make a committing move on protrusions (pegotes) to gain the main groove. Layback up this to a massive hold and belay on top of it.
3) 4c, 15m. Move up the crack and gain a poor stance in a triangular niche. You can carry on up the next pitch but be careful of rope drag.
4) 5b, 18m. Move up and left out of the niche and gain a diagonal that leads up and right to a roof. Make a 'gripper clipper' reach for the bolt and climb the roof on massive holds. Go up the crack to another bolt. Smear left 3m and balance up to the next bolt. Carry on to a ledge and traverse right to belay.
5) 5c, 30m. Move left to below a roof crack. Care needed if it is damp. Strenuous climbing up this leads to a memorable finale on the lip. Go up the slab to belay in the trees. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The area is known as "El Resquilón", located at the foot of the Pico Agero.

The route is about 130 meters, distributed in 5 pitches, although several of them can be linked. It is well equipped with parabolts - intermediate bolts and belay stations - although we must be aware of the equipment philosophy of this area, where the bolts are only located in areas that can´t be protected with friends or nuts. That's why some friend are required - red and yellow camalots and aliens of the same color go well - or nuts.

L1 – Easy slab of about 15-20m grade III (French grade system), with 3 bolts.
L2 – Straight up towards the step and a tricky move to the right will lead you to the crack going from right to left, which can be easily protected, about 40m grade V. (Pitch 1 and 2 can be done as one but really tight with 60m ropes, not recommended)
L3 – Mainly straight up the next belay using different cracks, about 20m grade as V.
L4 – The climb tent to go a bit to the right of the belay and towards another step, a couple of bolts and good protection allows you to go the final slab protected with two bolts, about 20m grade as IV+. (If not confident with Picos´s slabs by now, you can use the crack on the right using the tree as protection, grade IV), (Pitch 3 and 4 can be done as one pitch)
L5 – Although the roof it´s intimidating the tricky moves are on good holds and the two bolts will give you the confidence to get out the roof safely, after that an easy scramble to the tree which is used to belay, about 30m long grade as V+.
Once on the top go left to find the path which will take you down, cables have been installed as the path is really exposed, otherwise when you have the path in front of you turn left using the cable which will take you to an abseil point, you should be down in 2 abseils (about 40m and 50m long) .

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