UKC

315m, 10 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic route but much less climbed than the South Spur. It has a bit of everything in its near 500m and would get around E2 in the UK. Start by walking up the Agero Gully to just below the lower of two large boulders. Scramble/walk up and right into a vegetated bay.
1) 4a, 30m. Move up and right across easy ground to get to the base of an unappealing vegetated groove. Climb this to a small tree that is slung with a rope.
2) 5c, 25m. From the tree, move up and take the wall on the left past two old threads which are useful to mark the route if nothing else. Climb direct to a grassy niche with a peg and spike tied off with a manky rope.
3) 6a, 35m. Step right and climb the pocketed wall - more gear than first appears and the holds are generally positive. Go up to larger pockets (often filled with grass and can seep after rain) to gain the crack above. Move up this for 5m then step right to a belay on a couple of very old pegs and a thread.
4) 6a+, 35m. Move up the wide crack and begin 'chicken-winging' your way the off-width. A good bolted belay arrives at a ledge.
5) 6a, 30m. Move left and climb up to a flake that heads right. Arrange gear before the flake peters out and make a committing move to reach the peg. It is possible to back this up by making a move right to a crack before moving back left and up to another peg. The climbing soon eases and there is a bolt and peg belay.
6) 6a, 45m. Follow the groove up and slightly right and then move up steep ground on good holds to reach the roof. Shuffle left under this to the base of a steep corner. Sustained and well protected climbing up this leads to a peg belay on the left.
7) 4c, 35m. Follow the continuation of the corner up right past an eagle's eating spot, as it turns slabby to a peg belay on good ledge. This is the top of the 'Arrowhead' and where the Espolon Sur joins this route.
8) 5a, 20m. Make a hard move off the ledge using a crack on the left. Above this romp up cracks and good holds to where the angle eases. Belay on pegs.
9) 3c, 30m. Head up left over easier ground to belay below a harder section in a corner.
10) 4a, 30m. Climb the corner and then move left around the summit to where cairns start to mark the descent path to the 'col'. © Rockfax

FA. Javier Torralbo, Jesus Rodriguez. Angel Cianca 24.6.1973 24/Jun/1973.

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

There are no ascents logged for this climb.

2 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Route of Interest
Sin City Right

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Fuente Du)

Loading Notifications...