75m, 3 pitches.
A pleasant route that takes the narrow buttress left of the crack of Breakthrough on the Top Tier. The buttress has a distinctive 'smile' on the second pitch. Start up left on a steepening grass ramp from the foot of Breakthrough to reach a small clean ledge right of an overhang. 1. 20m 4a. Climb above the clean ledge and step right into a corner, up some grass and then rock to a semi-hanging belay below the crack of Breakthrough. 2. 20m 5a Step left and climb the 'smiling' buttress on good horizontal breaks near the 'smile' and continue up the middle to a large crevasse. Step over this and belay on the left side, a good pitch.
3. 35m 4b. Climb up to a large triangular block, passing it on the left to reach a short corner which is climbed to a break. Step left into a deep groove up which the climb finished more easily.
3. 35m 4b. Climb up to a large triangular block, passing it on the left to reach a short corner which is climbed to a break. Step left into a deep groove up which the climb finished more easily.
John Mackenzie and Andrew James 30/May/2021.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
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Route of Interest
Inbred
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Creag Dubh (Newtonmore))