UKC

Climbs 52
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 12m a.s.l
Faces E

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me on gates of eden daddyhole. © Kate Edhouse

Crag features

The main cliff has the appearance of imminent collapse but be assured it has been that way for decades. It is home to some fine routes on solid limestone up soaring arêtes and corners, but also some daft ones which test optimism to the limit. In addition to single and multi-pitch climbs, a number of good deep water solos have been done on the seaward face.

Approach notes

From Torquay's Harbour, follow signs for Daddyhole around its Marina, past the 'Living Coasts' bird sanctuary and up the hill. A number of signed turnings eventually lead to the Daddyhole car park.

Walk left (facing out) down steps and follow a small path off right. The Main Cliff now comes into view and a small, steep and narrow path on the right descends to the boulder-beach (care required). The base of the crag is a quick boulder-hop away.

Rockfax Digital

Available on Rockfax Digital

Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
Replaced it today.
Kafoozalem - 23/Jul/15
The Triton abseil station appears to have gone awol. I will replace it unless anyone has strong feelings. This has always enable a useful top down approach to the crag.
Kafoozalem - 22/Jul/15
Seagulls gone.
Motown - 05/Jul/13
Three baby seagles on large ledge containing first belay on Gargantua and below Gates of Eden crux. Not sure if they had fallen there or if it was a nest. Limits all routes that approach that section of the cliff at present.
Motown - 26/Jun/13
"Peg belay" after first pitch of Triton is now just one mangled rusty peg. Plenty of gear placements insted. Peg on 5b crux of Fandangle is very bendy and rusty. Worth backing up with small wires or risk a fall onto the not brilliant belay. Fortunately, as of December 2011, the tree belays have not been subject to the same cull as those on neighbouring crags.
Dave 88 - 08/Dec/11
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Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

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