Altitude 12m a.s.l
me on gates of eden daddyhole. © Kate Edhouse
The main cliff has the appearance of imminent collapse but be assured it has been that way for decades. It is home to some fine routes on solid limestone up soaring arÃªtes and corners, but also some daft ones which test optimism to the limit. In addition to single and multi-pitch climbs, a number of good deep water solos have been done on the seaward face.
From Torquay's Harbour, follow signs for Daddyhole around its Marina, past the 'Living Coasts' bird sanctuary and up the hill. A number of signed turnings eventually lead to the Daddyhole car park.
Walk left (facing out) down steps and follow a small path off right. The Main Cliff now comes into view and a small, steep and narrow path on the right descends to the boulder-beach (care required). The base of the crag is a quick boulder-hop away.
|Replaced it today.
Kafoozalem - 23/Jul/15
|The Triton abseil station appears to have gone awol. I will replace it unless anyone has strong feelings. This has always enable a useful top down approach to the crag.
Kafoozalem - 22/Jul/15
Motown - 05/Jul/13
|Three baby seagles on large ledge containing first belay on Gargantua and below Gates of Eden crux. Not sure if they had fallen there or if it was a nest. Limits all routes that approach that section of the cliff at present.
Motown - 26/Jun/13
|"Peg belay" after first pitch of Triton is now just one mangled rusty peg. Plenty of gear placements insted.
Peg on 5b crux of Fandangle is very bendy and rusty. Worth backing up with small wires or risk a fall onto the not brilliant belay.
Fortunately, as of December 2011, the tree belays have not been subject to the same cull as those on neighbouring crags.
Dave 88 - 08/Dec/11
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