UKC

Climbs 104
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 47m a.s.l
Faces S

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CE getting his leg over... © Anaconda

Crag features

Forgotten after the initial explorations, the set of crags beneath the parking area became smothered in ivy and littered with refuse. In 2016 the impetus of guidebook preparation saw the Eastern Face 'come into age'. Loose rock was trundled, paths were opened up and ivy was cleared to inspire a new wave of development.



South facing, quick drying, just above sea level and non-tidal, a sheltered sun-trap of weathered natural limestone. An easy and safe 3 min path access to the base of the crag and solid belay posts every 2m at the top of the routes. The routes are generally no higher than 22m and with railings all the way along the top has great top rope potential. The Ravine is now fully accessible via the path and routes are appearing from under the ivy. The crag will only improve with greater use and 2023 is a great opportunity to get this crag back into regular use and also new route potential.

Approach notes

From Torquay's Harbour, follow signs for Daddyhole around its Marina, past the now closed 'Living Coasts' bird sanctuary and up the hill. A number of signed turnings eventually lead to the Daddyhole car park.



Walk left (facing out) down steps and follow a small path off right. where the steps end, turn south towards the sea across a flattish area of cleared ground to a heavily coppiced sycamore stump at the edge of the cleared area. Follow the path steeply at first down the side of the sycamore then contour west and then up through Holm Oaks to reach the base of the cliff.



It is also possible to abseil in directly from the car park railings or take a very exposed traverse (watch for bad step) in from the top edge of the cliff by hoping over the railings half way down the steps.

Update this Crag
Last updated on 01/Jun/2023
There is now an in situ belay/ ab station around the holly tree at the finish of Hunt The Dump.
Chris Ebbutt - 02/Sep/22
The 3 piton and chain belay/lower off on Hunt The Dump has been removed leaving one piton as a runner. Routes now ascend to the holly tree directly above, then step right to the belay/lower off of Tin Can Alley.
Chris Ebbutt - 09/Apr/21
Project arete on the lower tier has finally succumbed after attention from Martin Crocker, giving Daddyhole Upper its hardest boulder problem to date. Reylon 6C
Chris Ebbutt - 03/Nov/20
The Ravine is now open for routes, clear easy access to some heavily weathered and featured rock. Coldfinger restored after nearly 50 years! Enjoy
Chris Ebbutt - 25/Oct/18
Large rockfall above Love's labour's lost, Romeo and Juliet and Comedy of Errors has now been cleaned and scaled of larger debris and soil cornice. Bottom sections of all 3 routes are still dirty/muddy at present but should clean quickly with more rain and traffic.
Chris Ebbutt - 03/Apr/18
Large rockfall has come from above the large overhang forming the LH wall to the Romeo and Juliet exit chimney. Suggest giving the routes in the corner a wide berth at the moment.
Chris Ebbutt - 03/Feb/18
More cleared and cleaned routes, perfect sheltered dry winter venue sun trap.
Chris Ebbutt - 17/Nov/16
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