Climbs 29
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 185m a.s.l
Faces NW
Crag features
An impressive quarry with a clean northwest facing wall which has been developed with a number of sport routes.
The main slab faces NW and is in the shade until mid afternoon in summer. It can take some time to dry out after the winter. The best conditions are to be found during a dry spell. Mornings tend to be best when the main wall is in the shade and humidity is low.
The crag has important access and safety considerations - see below.
Approach notes
Park in Wirksworth at the Market Place. Head west past the Quarryman Pub up the steep hill of West End which has very limited parking. After 160m turn right, signed Almark Garage. Walk up the track and aim for some bushes straight ahead (often with parked cars in front). Go through the bushes about 2m left of a dark telephone pole. This is all just before the entrance to the actual garage area. Go straight on down a vague path in a gully and into the quarry. A steep slippery slope with an old rope handrail leads down to the base of the quarry.
Restricted Access
There is no formal access to the quarry, there are signs discouraging access at the entrance. Climbing has taken place in the quarry since the mid 1980’s.
There are some access guidelines to follow to maintain the status quo.
On no account must any of the clifftop be used to access the crag at any time. The land at the top of the cliff is private land all the way from Almark garage through to the old gate on Dale Road. All equipping and re-equipping of routes can easily be done from the quarry floor by using existing bolts and anchors.
At present the route in the main corner called Future in Ruins should be avoided. Despite representation from the BMC a local resident continues to deposit garden waste down the cliff at this point.
If items of garden waste are thrown down the corner and do present a hazard then politely inform the resident that there are people below. If there are any issues please do not antagonise the situation, please also inform the local access rep/crag moderator.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
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