UKC

Restricted Access

There is no formal access to the quarry, there are signs discouraging access at the entrance.  Climbing has taken place in the quarry since the mid 1980’s.

There are some access guidelines to follow to maintain the status quo.

On no account must any of the clifftop be used to access the crag at any time.  The land at the top of the cliff is private land all the way from Almark garage through to the old gate on Dale Road.  All equipping and re-equipping of routes can easily be done from the quarry floor by using existing bolts and anchors.

At present the route in the main corner called Future in Ruins should be avoided.  Despite representation from the BMC a  local resident continues to deposit garden waste down the cliff at this point.

If items of garden waste are thrown down the corner and do present a hazard then politely inform the resident that there are people below.  If there are any issues please do not antagonise the situation, please also inform the local access rep/crag moderator.

 

 

 

Rockfax Description
Climb Handy Wallhole to the first break. Traverse right to a ledge. Move up and right via nose of rock and gain a ledge. Step right and climb direct. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb Handy Wallhole to the first break, stand in it, trav. right to ledge. Move up and right via nose of rock and gain ledge. Step right and climb direct.

Geoff Hornby 20/May/1989.

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Dale Quarry (Wirksworth)

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Route of Interest
Cave Wall

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Froggatt Edge)

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