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35m.

Rockfax Description
Climb into the wallhole (pulling on the chain is cheating) and continue via technical climbing with good rests to a ledge. The fine wall above leads rightwards to the belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
'One of the best quarried limestone routes in Derbyshire'. Climb Into the Wallhole (Pulling on the chain is cheating) and continue via technical climbing interspersed with good rests to a ledge. The fine wall above leads rightwards to the belay.

Seb Grieve, Simon Lee, Phil Dickens Mar/1987.

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User Date Notes
Ed F 27 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: On a 60m rope with plenty spare
βeta?
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βeta: On a 60m rope with plenty spare
Seb Grieve 27 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I have to thank Phil Dickens for this find. He was living in the area and used to drive around in Winter looking for new quarries and cliffs that were more visible due to lack of leaves an tree cover. This was 1 of 3 new venues he found. To clean the route, I had to sneak through a garage and then find something solid to abseil off. The first time I visited I had to abseil with a spade larks footed off my harness so that I could clear off the grassy ledges at the top. I recall someone calling across from the other side in Wirskworth, asking what I was doing. After climbing the route some people commented that it was a waste of time since the quarry would be filled in in a few months. To be fair it was being slowly filled in with roadstone, however, on revisiting a couple of year latter the starting hole was half covered meaning that you no longer had to do the horrible starting moves thus improving the climb. Climbed on the day Andy Warhol died.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I have to thank Phil Dickens for this find. He was living in the area and used to drive around in Winter looking for new quarries and cliffs that were more visible due to lack of leaves an tree cover. This was 1 of 3 new venues he found. To clean the route, I had to sneak through a garage and then find something solid to abseil off. The first time I visited I had to abseil with a spade larks footed off my harness so that I could clear off the grassy ledges at the top. I recall someone calling across from the other side in Wirskworth, asking what I was doing. After climbing the route some people commented that it was a waste of time since the quarry would be filled in in a few months. To be fair it was being slowly filled in with roadstone, however, on revisiting a couple of year latter the starting hole was half covered meaning that you no longer had to do the horrible starting moves thus improving the climb. Climbed on the day Andy Warhol died.
pete cress 28 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Glad you put the effort in to bolt it Simon, top route.
βeta?
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βeta: Glad you put the effort in to bolt it Simon, top route.
Tony Walker 23 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely route. Felt a bit reachy but okay. Thin crack just above half height gives a definite crux.
βeta?
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βeta: Lovely route. Felt a bit reachy but okay. Thin crack just above half height gives a definite crux.
JamieSparkes 8 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A long pitch with fantastic, absorbing climbing. well worth seeking out. Thought it was a bit of a toughie for 7a, but then again I've always found slabs hard, so who knows? Can see it being considerably easier if you moved right onto the flake of the old E3 at the crux, but it's definitely cheating!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A long pitch with fantastic, absorbing climbing. well worth seeking out. Thought it was a bit of a toughie for 7a, but then again I've always found slabs hard, so who knows? Can see it being considerably easier if you moved right onto the flake of the old E3 at the crux, but it's definitely cheating!
Stoney Boy 14 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A major effort to bring this fine route back to life. 3 reconnaissance missions and a 5am start to avoid detection in someone’s back garden, allegedly. Hopefully people will go and enjoy it.
 
Show beta
βeta: A major effort to bring this fine route back to life. 3 reconnaissance missions and a 5am start to avoid detection in someone’s back garden, allegedly. Hopefully people will go and enjoy it.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Cairn

Grade: 7a ***
(Harpur Hill Quarry)