UKC Logbook - 'Handy Wallhole'

35m.

Rockfax Description
Climb into the wallhole (pulling on the chain is cheating) and continue via technical climbing with good rests to a ledge. The fine wall above leads rightwards to the belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
'One of the best quarried limestone routes in Derbyshire'. Climb Into the Wallhole (Pulling on the chain is cheating) and continue via technical climbing interspersed with good rests to a ledge. The fine wall above leads rightwards to the belay.

Seb Grieve, Simon Lee, Phil Dickens Mar/1987.

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User	Date		Notes
Ed F	27 Sep, 2020	Show βeta βeta: On a 60m rope with plenty spare	βeta?
Show beta βeta: On a 60m rope with plenty spare
Seb Grieve	27 Aug, 2020	Show βeta βeta: I have to thank Phil Dickens for this find. He was living in the area and used to drive around in Winter looking for new quarries and cliffs that were more visible due to lack of leaves an tree cover. This was 1 of 3 new venues he found. To clean the route, I had to sneak through a garage and then find something solid to abseil off. The first time I visited I had to abseil with a spade larks footed off my harness so that I could clear off the grassy ledges at the top. I recall someone calling across from the other side in Wirskworth, asking what I was doing. After climbing the route some people commented that it was a waste of time since the quarry would be filled in in a few months. To be fair it was being slowly filled in with roadstone, however, on revisiting a couple of year latter the starting hole was half covered meaning that you no longer had to do the horrible starting moves thus improving the climb. Climbed on the day Andy Warhol died.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I have to thank Phil Dickens for this find. He was living in the area and used to drive around in Winter looking for new quarries and cliffs that were more visible due to lack of leaves an tree cover. This was 1 of 3 new venues he found. To clean the route, I had to sneak through a garage and then find something solid to abseil off. The first time I visited I had to abseil with a spade larks footed off my harness so that I could clear off the grassy ledges at the top. I recall someone calling across from the other side in Wirskworth, asking what I was doing. After climbing the route some people commented that it was a waste of time since the quarry would be filled in in a few months. To be fair it was being slowly filled in with roadstone, however, on revisiting a couple of year latter the starting hole was half covered meaning that you no longer had to do the horrible starting moves thus improving the climb. Climbed on the day Andy Warhol died.
pete cress	28 Jun, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Glad you put the effort in to bolt it Simon, top route.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Glad you put the effort in to bolt it Simon, top route.
Tony Walker	23 May, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Lovely route. Felt a bit reachy but okay. Thin crack just above half height gives a definite crux.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Lovely route. Felt a bit reachy but okay. Thin crack just above half height gives a definite crux.
JamieSparkes	8 Aug, 2019	Show βeta βeta: A long pitch with fantastic, absorbing climbing. well worth seeking out. Thought it was a bit of a toughie for 7a, but then again I've always found slabs hard, so who knows? Can see it being considerably easier if you moved right onto the flake of the old E3 at the crux, but it's definitely cheating!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: A long pitch with fantastic, absorbing climbing. well worth seeking out. Thought it was a bit of a toughie for 7a, but then again I've always found slabs hard, so who knows? Can see it being considerably easier if you moved right onto the flake of the old E3 at the crux, but it's definitely cheating!
Stoney Boy	14 May, 2019	Show βeta βeta: A major effort to bring this fine route back to life. 3 reconnaissance missions and a 5am start to avoid detection in someone’s back garden, allegedly. Hopefully people will go and enjoy it.
Show beta βeta: A major effort to bring this fine route back to life. 3 reconnaissance missions and a 5am start to avoid detection in someone’s back garden, allegedly. Hopefully people will go and enjoy it.

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