UKC

Restricted Access

There is no formal access to the quarry, there are signs discouraging access at the entrance.  Climbing has taken place in the quarry since the mid 1980’s.

There are some access guidelines to follow to maintain the status quo.

On no account must any of the clifftop be used to access the crag at any time.  The land at the top of the cliff is private land all the way from Almark garage through to the old gate on Dale Road.  All equipping and re-equipping of routes can easily be done from the quarry floor by using existing bolts and anchors.

At present the route in the main corner called Future in Ruins should be avoided.  Despite representation from the BMC a  local resident continues to deposit garden waste down the cliff at this point.

If items of garden waste are thrown down the corner and do present a hazard then politely inform the resident that there are people below.  If there are any issues please do not antagonise the situation, please also inform the local access rep/crag moderator.

 

 

 

14m.

Rockfax Description
A direct line through Anxious Moments. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start on the right side of a sooty strip roof at a black slab. Climb this via some technical shennanigans passing the white slab to another roof with a shallow groove and rib. Go over the roof and move rightwards and then back left and up for the belay. Maybe harder for the short.

Lucian Cottle 29/May/2020.

Feedback

User Date Notes
stp 5 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Needs a first bolt. The current first bolt is dangerously high and you need to pull hard on some friable looking rock to get to it. Best to pre-clip with a clipstick for now.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Needs a first bolt. The current first bolt is dangerously high and you need to pull hard on some friable looking rock to get to it. Best to pre-clip with a clipstick for now.
steepstuff 26 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Very good....hard 6c
Show beta
βeta: Very good....hard 6c
pete cress 28 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Nice one Lucian, good route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice one Lucian, good route.

Logged Ascents

32 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Dale Quarry (Wirksworth)

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Enchanted Nightmare

Grade: 6c ***
(Blue Lagoon Quarry)

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