There is no formal access to the quarry, there are signs discouraging access at the entrance. Climbing has taken place in the quarry since the mid 1980’s.
There are some access guidelines to follow to maintain the status quo.
On no account must any of the clifftop be used to access the crag at any time. The land at the top of the cliff is private land all the way from Almark garage through to the old gate on Dale Road. All equipping and re-equipping of routes can easily be done from the quarry floor by using existing bolts and anchors.
At present the route in the main corner called Future in Ruins should be avoided. Despite representation from the BMC a local resident continues to deposit garden waste down the cliff at this point.
If items of garden waste are thrown down the corner and do present a hazard then politely inform the resident that there are people below. If there are any issues please do not antagonise the situation, please also inform the local access rep/crag moderator.
Rockfax Description
A direct line through Anxious Moments. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start on the right side of a sooty strip roof at a black slab. Climb this via some technical shennanigans passing the white slab to another roof with a shallow groove and rib. Go over the roof and move rightwards and then back left and up for the belay. Maybe harder for the short.
Lucian Cottle 29/May/2020.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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stp | 5 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Needs a first bolt. The current first bolt is dangerously high and you need to pull hard on some friable looking rock to get to it. Best to pre-clip with a clipstick for now. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Needs a first bolt. The current first bolt is dangerously high and you need to pull hard on some friable looking rock to get to it. Best to pre-clip with a clipstick for now. |
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steepstuff | 26 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Very good....hard 6c | ||
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βeta: Very good....hard 6c |
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pete cress | 28 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Nice one Lucian, good route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nice one Lucian, good route. |
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Grade: 6c ***
(Blue Lagoon Quarry)