UKC

10 pitches. The route that starts in Dali's hole, heads through the tunnel into California, takes you on a wild adventure through the quarries before finally emerging from Mordor at the (now collapsed) Bridge of Doom.

Ticklists

Big Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alex_Handhold 24 May Show βeta
βeta: Not for those without a decent head for heights or distrust of old rusty ladders. Only one chain remains but it's a smaller diameter to the old one. You can clip this with regular quickdraws(I didn't realise this until I ran out of HMS), and it's probably wise to take a few short slings for footloops. It's best not to look at what's securing the chain to the top of the route, you don't need that kind of negativity in your life. There's 2 bolts for setting up an anchor at the top. The abseil back down into Dali's hole has a chain around the tree. The tunnel to Australia is fairly easy to find, you have already walked past it when heading to California. We took the left route out of the tunnel(past looning tube) and up the scree dead ahead/slightly left. The ladders are rusty as shit and those things will fall to the ground one day in the not too distant future. The good news is that most of them have been loosely secured with some old dyneema. Best not to question the age of the rope, or what anchors it to the rock. I used a couple of crabs on a sling as makeshift via ferrata gear, my partner climbed unprotected and much faster, presumably to lessen the odds of being around when they separate themselves from the rock. The abseil into the lost world has loads of tatt left around the tree, seems solid enough. A 50m rope will get you to the first ledge with a bit of a scramble to the bottom, a 70m would make your life a little easier but not essential. Overall 10/10 day, but wouldn't take anyone I cared about dearly.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not for those without a decent head for heights or distrust of old rusty ladders. Only one chain remains but it's a smaller diameter to the old one. You can clip this with regular quickdraws(I didn't realise this until I ran out of HMS), and it's probably wise to take a few short slings for footloops. It's best not to look at what's securing the chain to the top of the route, you don't need that kind of negativity in your life. There's 2 bolts for setting up an anchor at the top. The abseil back down into Dali's hole has a chain around the tree. The tunnel to Australia is fairly easy to find, you have already walked past it when heading to California. We took the left route out of the tunnel(past looning tube) and up the scree dead ahead/slightly left. The ladders are rusty as shit and those things will fall to the ground one day in the not too distant future. The good news is that most of them have been loosely secured with some old dyneema. Best not to question the age of the rope, or what anchors it to the rock. I used a couple of crabs on a sling as makeshift via ferrata gear, my partner climbed unprotected and much faster, presumably to lessen the odds of being around when they separate themselves from the rock. The abseil into the lost world has loads of tatt left around the tree, seems solid enough. A 50m rope will get you to the first ledge with a bit of a scramble to the bottom, a 70m would make your life a little easier but not essential. Overall 10/10 day, but wouldn't take anyone I cared about dearly.
mike.1066 23 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome wonder through the quarries, with plenty to explore along the way. Chain pitch is protectable with cows-tails with some HMS carbs. Fantastic day out. Point to note - "gives a sense of adventure" = sketchy af, death possible
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome wonder through the quarries, with plenty to explore along the way. Chain pitch is protectable with cows-tails with some HMS carbs. Fantastic day out. Point to note - "gives a sense of adventure" = sketchy af, death possible
Paulos87 4 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Topo & guide in the back of North Wales Slate
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Topo & guide in the back of North Wales Slate
big 7 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Left side of scree in Australia is much easier - i.e. go left immediately after the tunnel. If you want to do the wonky ladder as well there's a short ramp you can descend.
Show beta
βeta: Left side of scree in Australia is much easier - i.e. go left immediately after the tunnel. If you want to do the wonky ladder as well there's a short ramp you can descend.

Logged Ascents

148 users have logged this
15 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High VF1B
Mid VF1B
Low VF1B
High VF1A
Mid VF1A
Low VF1A
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Loading Notifications...