UKC

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July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

10 pitches. The route that starts in Dali's hole, heads through the tunnel into California, takes you on a wild adventure through the quarries before finally emerging from Mordor at the (now collapsed) Bridge of Doom.

Ticklists

Big Routes , LSMC to do , HS-HVS adventures

Feedback

User Date Notes
RichPacker 29 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: We took an 80m rope for a party of four and used it going up some of the ladders and the chain. It took nearly 4hrs but would have been a lot quicker if not using rope for safety Ladders etc very rusty and dodgy but we lived to tell the tale. Head torch advisable but could be done without.
Show beta
βeta: We took an 80m rope for a party of four and used it going up some of the ladders and the chain. It took nearly 4hrs but would have been a lot quicker if not using rope for safety Ladders etc very rusty and dodgy but we lived to tell the tale. Head torch advisable but could be done without.
EllenHolmes 5 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Penultimate ladder showing quite a bit of wear now and back up rope rungs are pretty shot too. Single bolt belay at top of chain pitch as hangers have been removed from two back up bolts
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Penultimate ladder showing quite a bit of wear now and back up rope rungs are pretty shot too. Single bolt belay at top of chain pitch as hangers have been removed from two back up bolts
DannyLamby 3 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Cracking afternoon out, went in good weather, chain was very entertaining and well protected with threaded slings (don't bother with trying to clip into it), abseils were fine though some were a little chossy so leader beware! Feels like the closest you can get to canyoneering in the UK, 10/10 recommend for a nice rest day
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cracking afternoon out, went in good weather, chain was very entertaining and well protected with threaded slings (don't bother with trying to clip into it), abseils were fine though some were a little chossy so leader beware! Feels like the closest you can get to canyoneering in the UK, 10/10 recommend for a nice rest day
Alex_Handhold 24 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Not for those without a decent head for heights or distrust of old rusty ladders. Only one chain remains but it's a smaller diameter to the old one. You can clip this with regular quickdraws(I didn't realise this until I ran out of HMS), and it's probably wise to take a few short slings for footloops. It's best not to look at what's securing the chain to the top of the route, you don't need that kind of negativity in your life. There's 2 bolts for setting up an anchor at the top. The abseil back down into Dali's hole has a chain around the tree. The tunnel to Australia is fairly easy to find, you have already walked past it when heading to California. We took the left route out of the tunnel(past looning tube) and up the scree dead ahead/slightly left. The ladders are rusty as shit and those things will fall to the ground one day in the not too distant future. The good news is that most of them have been loosely secured with some old dyneema. Best not to question the age of the rope, or what anchors it to the rock. I used a couple of crabs on a sling as makeshift via ferrata gear, my partner climbed unprotected and much faster, presumably to lessen the odds of being around when they separate themselves from the rock. The abseil into the lost world has loads of tatt left around the tree, seems solid enough. A 50m rope will get you to the first ledge with a bit of a scramble to the bottom, a 70m would make your life a little easier but not essential. Overall 10/10 day, but wouldn't take anyone I cared about dearly.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not for those without a decent head for heights or distrust of old rusty ladders. Only one chain remains but it's a smaller diameter to the old one. You can clip this with regular quickdraws(I didn't realise this until I ran out of HMS), and it's probably wise to take a few short slings for footloops. It's best not to look at what's securing the chain to the top of the route, you don't need that kind of negativity in your life. There's 2 bolts for setting up an anchor at the top. The abseil back down into Dali's hole has a chain around the tree. The tunnel to Australia is fairly easy to find, you have already walked past it when heading to California. We took the left route out of the tunnel(past looning tube) and up the scree dead ahead/slightly left. The ladders are rusty as shit and those things will fall to the ground one day in the not too distant future. The good news is that most of them have been loosely secured with some old dyneema. Best not to question the age of the rope, or what anchors it to the rock. I used a couple of crabs on a sling as makeshift via ferrata gear, my partner climbed unprotected and much faster, presumably to lessen the odds of being around when they separate themselves from the rock. The abseil into the lost world has loads of tatt left around the tree, seems solid enough. A 50m rope will get you to the first ledge with a bit of a scramble to the bottom, a 70m would make your life a little easier but not essential. Overall 10/10 day, but wouldn't take anyone I cared about dearly.
mike.1066 23 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome wonder through the quarries, with plenty to explore along the way. Chain pitch is protectable with cows-tails with some HMS carbs. Fantastic day out. Point to note - "gives a sense of adventure" = sketchy af, death possible
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome wonder through the quarries, with plenty to explore along the way. Chain pitch is protectable with cows-tails with some HMS carbs. Fantastic day out. Point to note - "gives a sense of adventure" = sketchy af, death possible
Paulos87 4 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Topo & guide in the back of North Wales Slate
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Topo & guide in the back of North Wales Slate
big 7 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Left side of scree in Australia is much easier - i.e. go left immediately after the tunnel. If you want to do the wonky ladder as well there's a short ramp you can descend.
Show beta
βeta: Left side of scree in Australia is much easier - i.e. go left immediately after the tunnel. If you want to do the wonky ladder as well there's a short ramp you can descend.

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