UKC

450m. This is not a sports route but an alpine one - heed the warning. It can be serious and turns into Omaha beach on D-Day (re stone fall) if it rains. In UK technical terms (it is bolted but very sportingly in places approx between 12-20ft spacing). It starts at about UK 4b, rapidly heads up to 5a then as you hit the white streaks it's about 5b/5c slab work with big fall potential due to very well spaced bolts.
It 'can' also become wet in the afternoon as snow well above somewhere starts to melt and filter down. This can be very disconcerting as you look up the slab in the heat of later afternoon to see water filtering down ... one to never get caught on if it looks like rain.

It's a fantastic Alpine route with a massive serious slab which tests your technique/head/bottle to some degree. Don't try and avoid the hardest sections... once you loose the bolt line your in trouble ... it doesn't take any gear ... you may get 2 bits in over approx 300m.

Many people have had issues with the decent when wet.

ROUGH GUIDE OF ROUTE:
>p1: 4a, slab ...
>p2: 5a, ... Slab ...
>p3: 5b, ... Slab! The slab is to the ball!
>p4: 5b, a small passage on the left slab (really?)
>p5: 5c, in ... ok, we understood!
>p6: 6a, a step towards the end.
>p7: 6a, the first 3 nails are pretty hot. Tighten the buttocks and trust your feet!
>p8: 5c, climbing becomes a bit more varied.
>p9: 5c, we begin to ascend the chute itself.
>p10: 5b
>p11: 5b, canyoning atmosphere
>p12: 5b, a wall and a beautiful pillar to finish off!

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

57 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Dalle de l'Amone

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 14 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
South East Pillar

Grade: TD+ ***
(Petit Clocher du Portalet)

Loading Notifications...