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Climbs 178
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 16m a.s.l
Faces S

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Sunrise at Dancing Ledge, Swanage © welshdragon

Crag features

Dancing Ledge is one of the most important areas at Swanage for sport climbers. The quality and variety of routes is good and virtually all are fully bolted with solid resin staples. The quarry routes are mostly very solid and friendly outings, whilst the sea-level cave routes are intimidating, often committing and strenuous, though the rock and atmosphere are excellent. The picturesque setting makes this a great summer spot for picnicking and swimming.

Approach notes

Dancing Ledge is approached from Langton Matravers. From just outside Swanage town, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers. Once in the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The free car park is 300m down the road (on a track for the last 150m) just beyond Langton House. From the parking, walk south on a good path/track to Spyway Barn. Continue through two fields until the cliff-top path is reached. Head down the big hill (via stone steps) towards Dancing Ledge, which lies directly below the coast path. Steps lead down into the quarry.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Swanage (2015)

Out of print:
Please note that there are seasonal bird restrictions on routes right of Dante's Inferno (i.e. Sea of Holes, Song to the Siren, White Rave and Ten K Rig) - no climbing from 31st March to 31st July.
steve taylor - 07/Feb/13
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Climbs at this crag

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