Sunrise at Dancing Ledge, Swanage © welshdragon
Dancing Ledge is one of the most important areas at Swanage for sport climbers. The quality and variety of routes is good and virtually all are fully bolted with solid resin staples. The quarry routes are mostly very solid and friendly outings, whilst the sea-level cave routes are intimidating, often committing and strenuous, though the rock and atmosphere are excellent. The picturesque setting makes this a great summer spot for picnicking and swimming.
Dancing Ledge is approached from Langton Matravers. From just outside Swanage town, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers. Once in the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The free car park is 300m down the road (on a track for the last 150m) just beyond Langton House. From the parking, walk south on a good path/track to Spyway Barn. Continue through two fields until the cliff-top path is reached. Head down the big hill (via stone steps) towards Dancing Ledge, which lies directly below the coast path. Steps lead down into the quarry.
|Please note that there are seasonal bird restrictions on routes right of Dante's Inferno (i.e. Sea of Holes, Song to the Siren, White Rave and Ten K Rig) - no climbing from 31st March to 31st July.
steve taylor - 07/Feb/13