Climbs 17
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 293m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Deri © Mark Glaister

Crag features

Deri is a steep wall of compact rock, tucked away in the hills above the town of the same name. It is not too far from Bargoed Quarry and a visit to both on the same day could be easily combined, if finger strength is not depleted! The main attraction at Deri is the steep wall of grade 7s which, once clean, gives some excellent sustained pitches. The crag has been de-bolted in the past, but most of the routes have been restored. It can be dirty, but once back in regular use should remain clean.

Approach notes

The crag is located between Deri and Bargoed and is quite awkward to get to. Either drive towards Deri from Bargoed, until the crag can be seen up on the left, park and walk in, or take a shorter but easy-to-get-lost way in. This involves taking the left fork just before Bargoed high street starts to drop down and taking a steep road to a right turn immediately before Heolddy Comprehensive School. Go over the first cattle grid to a second, then turn right. Follow this road for about a mile, until a grassed-over spoil heap can be seen on the right about 200m before a small stream valley with a marked footpath. Park, go over the fence and follow the path leftwards contouring round the hill to arrive at the crag. If on foot, forget it.

Access Advice

The crag appears to lie on private land and is not part of the Parc Cwm Darran Country Park as originally thought,  and the access situation is not clear. Some climbers reported difficulties gaining access to the crag in sept 2019, due to new fences on the surrounding land. 

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South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More Guidebooks:
South Wales Climbing Wiki

Out of print:
A lot of routes now restored and really worth a visit. The 7a arĂȘte Kicking Ass and Taking Names is brilliant. The Rock is pretty good and most of the routes are reasonably clean. Take a soft brush
Xavierpercy - 06/Aug/16
Has this crag been re-bolted? Seen some discussion on SWMC earlier this year and keen to see how good it is.
KH - 10/Sep/13
The good news: No telephone call required now. The bad news: All the bolts have been chopped with an angle grinder.
Esoterical - 08/Dec/08
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Climbs at this crag

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