UKC

Climbs 184
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 531m a.s.l
Faces N

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Kate Bomphrey in the zone on Madre Salvaje 7c Desplomilandia © Mark Brightwell

Crag features

The magnificent escarpment to the north of the gorge known as Desplomilandia is one of the most important areas near El Chorro. This superb cliff is perched above some beautiful (artificial) lakes and has magnificent views which give it a very different atmosphere to the hustle and bustle of El Chorro, Alora and the Gorge area. The climbing is excellent and the spread of route styles and grades make it an essential venue for most visitors. It also has the huge bonus of mostly facing due north, which makes it an attractive option when it gets hot and the main Frontales cliffs are baking.

Desplomilandia is higher and more exposed than the crags nearer to El Chorro, and all of the sectors get a lot of shade. If things become too hot elsewhere, Desplomilandia is a haven of coolness and consequently tends to get quite popular. In the cooler months you can often still climb here, though a big belay jacket is advised. There is some seepage after prolonged rainfall, and climbing in the rain is possible at both El Triangulo and Bueno Sombra. There is no source of drinking water nearby.

Approach notes

From El Chorro, cross the dam, turn right and follow a narrow winding road uphill out of the gorge for about 5km to a T-junction. Turn right and follow the road past lakes, a tunnel and a bar (El Quiosco). Cross a dam and pass through a village. A few kilometres further, after crossing another dam, follow signs for Antequera. The first crags appear on your right shortly after passing a couple of very large quarries. The parking places are at the base of a dirt track. The quickest access to all sectors is by walking back along the road and taking a small path on the left, from where various paths reach each sector. El Triangulo and El Cable can also be accessed by a gentle (but slightly longer) walk up the dirt track opposite the parking. This track used to be driveable, but is now not passable for cars or vans.

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