UKC

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All bolts and fixed anchors were chopped during protest banner removal in 2020. The Lost World was re-bolted in 2022

45m.

Hong Kong Rock Description
45m - 20 Bolts. The proverbial girdle traverse makes an appearance and crosses almost every route on the face so avoid when other people are climbing. Start up the crack of Balance of Power and cut left at the third bolt, then diagonal up past a grey bolt hanger to the large hole on Over the Top (another grey bolt hanger here). Traverse across Special Forces and Sympathy for the Devil then reverse and downclimb the step across on Honorable Discharge. Continue left on the low angle slab, finishing on the arete of Old Man's War and a hanging belay from the anchors. Bring 20-ish draws, including several long slings. © Hong Kong Rock

UKC Logbook Description
The proverbial girdle traverse makes an appearance and crosses almost every route on the face so avoid when other people are climbing. Start up the crack of Balance of Power and cut left at the third bolt, then diagonal up past a grey bolt hanger to the large hole on Over the Top (another grey
bolt hanger here). Traverse across Special Forces and Sympathy for the Devil then reverse and downclimb the step across on Honorable Discharge. Continue left on the low angle slab, finishing on the arête of Old Man’s War and a hanging belay from the anchors. Bring 20-ish draws, including several long slings.

Brian Boyd, Birgitta Bjornsson 2019.

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Guidebooks for Devil's Peak

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Route of Interest
Gweilo

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Lion Rock)

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