Rockfax Description
III, 325m. One of the massif's great crack routes, put up by infamous crack connoisseur Romain Vogler, marks a steep line straight up the face.
1) 3a. Follow a ramp out left to the first belay of Les Flammes du Désir.
2) 6b. Follow the chimney above the belay then cracks above.
3) 7a. Follow more cracks rightwards, first wider then narrowing to fingers. Bolts higher up.
4) 6c. Traverse right and follow the physical corner crack (bolts).
5) 6c. Climb the corner right of the belay, it gradually steepens. When level with bolts begin traverse left on crimps to a belay.
6) 6a. Climb the easy ground above by the line of least resistance passing a ledge and climbing the crack to a belay.
7) 7a. Climb the superb finger crack to a ledge.
8) 6c. Climb the short bolt protected corner crack to another ledge and the junction with Les Flammes du Désir.
9) 5a. As for Les Flammes du Désir. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
7a with possibly a 7b pitch? More info here :


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High ED2
Mid ED2
Low ED2
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 1
Route of Interest
La Directe (Diretta)

Grade: ED1 ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)

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