UKC

Restricted Access

An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.

While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy. 

Start on the starting jugs of Poodle traverse and move into the small roof slots. Make powerful moves out to the lip of the roof and traverse the face leftwards.

Note: For V8, share the slots and get to the lip. Your feet must come out of the roof so that the crux move of The Life of Fyfe is climbed. For V6, get through slots and RH to lip then move left with your feet still on the starting handhold jugs. Move further left for V4 or just get on Starke Attack!

Liam Fyfe.

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Voting
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gentle Jess Sit Down Start

Grade: f7A ***
(Dinas Rock)

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