UKC

45m. Excellent climbing up the clean face of Shining Wall. Climb the steep corner right of Carry on up the Khyber, then step right onto the face before being lured up the ramp. Climb up then rightwards into a recess below a final short corner. Abseil in-situ (May 2018)

K. Howett and G. Nicol 28/Sep/1997.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alasdair Fulton 14 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Did the top section of this on Here's Johnny. Very run out from the last solid pro and still tricky moves with delicate feet. A fall from the last hard move would not be pretty. Maybe some holds/gear have disappeared since the first ascent?
βeta?
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βeta: Did the top section of this on Here's Johnny. Very run out from the last solid pro and still tricky moves with delicate feet. A fall from the last hard move would not be pretty. Maybe some holds/gear have disappeared since the first ascent?
Alasdair Fulton 14 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Boooomy flake. Probably ok, maybe not.
βeta?
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βeta: Boooomy flake. Probably ok, maybe not.
John McKenna - Rockfax 11 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Not E1 and probably not even soft E2. An E1 leader would get a fright at the top on runout and serious 5b moves
βeta?
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βeta: Not E1 and probably not even soft E2. An E1 leader would get a fright at the top on runout and serious 5b moves
mark1atkins 13 May Show βeta
βeta: Agree with freudy_love.. woefully undergraded by smc at E1- more like hard E2. The final sentence in the smc guidebook states- "It looks blank but is covered in holds and protection" is very misleading. The upper wall is pumpy, maybe 5c, with sparse protection. My climbing partners all felt the same (it wasnt just me).
βeta?
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βeta: Agree with freudy_love.. woefully undergraded by smc at E1- more like hard E2. The final sentence in the smc guidebook states- "It looks blank but is covered in holds and protection" is very misleading. The upper wall is pumpy, maybe 5c, with sparse protection. My climbing partners all felt the same (it wasnt just me).
freudy_love 26 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Think (hope!) I was too far right in the upper section and possibly found myself on the end of "Here's Johnny"? It was HOT and I was tired but there is no way what I was on was E1 5b. Managed to reverse back on to and finish up "Carry on up the Khyber" with the help of my last good cam as a bit of french-free. Partner had a go on second at the section I backed off from and was a ball hair from coming off. Thought I followed the line on the Topo from Highland outcrops south fairly well - this may be misleading perhaps???
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Think (hope!) I was too far right in the upper section and possibly found myself on the end of "Here's Johnny"? It was HOT and I was tired but there is no way what I was on was E1 5b. Managed to reverse back on to and finish up "Carry on up the Khyber" with the help of my last good cam as a bit of french-free. Partner had a go on second at the section I backed off from and was a ball hair from coming off. Thought I followed the line on the Topo from Highland outcrops south fairly well - this may be misleading perhaps???

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 6
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Followed
Lead
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Working Class Hero

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Dirc Mhor)

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