Rockfax Description
80m. This climb traces a line up the right side of the front face, finishing up the big corner. Start at the toe of the buttress as for Scent of a Woman.
1. 20m 5a Climb the corner until it steepens and escape up the right wall onto a large slab. Follow a line diagonally up the wall above (as for Holy Smoke pitch 1) to belay at some large blocks.
2. 20m 5c Move slightly left into a niche. Climb the thin diagonal crack which leads leftwards with a hard move to reach a small triangular ledge. Go up the wall above; good holds lead into the base of the big corner.
3. 10m 4c Climb the corner to the roof. Exit left to belay on a ledge on the front of the buttress.
4. 30m 4c Climb the steep, exposed vertical crack above to finish.
FA M.Burrows-Smith, A.Fyffe, 23 Aug 1981 © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Immaculate steep rough rock, short crux, Barely E2
Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Dirc Mhor)