A route of historical significance that forges an impressive line up the longest section of the crag. The original start is extremely vegetated and the now normal start - up a route called Hangover - is described here. Some find the top pitch harder, especially if damp and/or dirty. Start at an easy-angled groove left of a boulder.
1) 17m. Climb the groove and move right to belay below a corner.
2) 5a, 28m. Climb the corner for 12m. Move left below the next steep section for 3m then up steeply and back right to regain the corner. Continue up right of a large grassy slab and then take a short chimney to a stance and belay on blocks in an alcove.
3) 5c, 45m. Step down and cross steep ground leftwards on reasonable holds to reach a grassy area below a long corner/groove. Follow the corner/groove to a small ledge. Step right and climb the leaning wall until below the upper overhang. Move right and pull over into a bottomless corner. Climb up the corner until forced right onto a rib that is followed to a ledge and belay. © Rockfax
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