Rockfax Description
A route of historical significance that forges an impressive line up the longest section of the crag. The original start is extremely vegetated and the now normal start - up a route called Hangover - is described here. Some find the top pitch harder, especially if damp and/or dirty. Start at an easy-angled groove left of a boulder.
1) 17m. Climb the groove and move right to belay below a corner.
2) 5a, 28m. Climb the corner for 12m. Move left below the next steep section for 3m, then up steeply and back right to regain the corner. Continue up right of a large grassy slab and take a short chimney to a stance and belay on blocks in an alcove.
3) 5c, 45m. Step down and cross steep ground leftwards on reasonable holds to reach a grassy area below a long corner/groove. Follow the corner/groove to a small ledge. Step right and climb the leaning wall until below the upper overhang. Move right and pull over into a bottomless corner. Climb up the corner until forced right onto a rib that is followed to a ledge and belay. © Rockfax


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Guidebooks for Dove Crag (Dovedale)

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 19
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bleak How Buttress

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Upper Langstrath Valley)

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