UKC

Rockfax Description
A stunning line that has an outrageous optional finish. Start up the flake as for Bucket City then continue up a small arete to below a groove. Move up right and then left to gain the groove - climb it to an easing and gear. Head up rightwards past a small spike until a long move gains a good hold at the top of a small arete. Make bold moves up the wall above trending right and then left, before heading straight for the finishing chimney which is often dirty.
The Flying Fissure Finish, E5 6b - From the good hold at the top of the small spike, go right to a peg before heading up the wall past a thread to gain good holds in a groove that leads to the top. © Rockfax

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Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain

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User Date Notes
Misha 11 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Had to leave a gold offset below the finishing groove. Should come out but might need a hex / rock to hit the nut key.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Had to leave a gold offset below the finishing groove. Should come out but might need a hex / rock to hit the nut key.
Misha 11 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Pink and green brass offsets, two no 4 offsets, no 5 offset, no 5 and 6 wires, yellow dragonfly, black, blue, yellow and green totems, silver cam plus lots of extenders.
Show beta
βeta: Pink and green brass offsets, two no 4 offsets, no 5 offset, no 5 and 6 wires, yellow dragonfly, black, blue, yellow and green totems, silver cam plus lots of extenders.
Misha 9 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Added 5mm tat to the belay flake at the top. With another loop of tat or a 360cm sling, the old sling can be cut out. The rope will need replacing soon as well. Also added a sling to the thread in the chimney. Recommend adding a silver cam equalised with a sling if belaying there or TRing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Added 5mm tat to the belay flake at the top. With another loop of tat or a 360cm sling, the old sling can be cut out. The rope will need replacing soon as well. Also added a sling to the thread in the chimney. Recommend adding a silver cam equalised with a sling if belaying there or TRing.

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Guidebooks for Dove Crag (Dovedale)

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 3
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Professional Direct

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Long Band Crag)

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