Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
The easiest route up the cliff follows a good line, although it is a touch vegetated and there is some loose rock.
1) 4c, 20m. Follow the diagonal break leftwards (threads) until awkward moves past a bulge gain a good stance.
2) 4b, 12m. Climb the steep groove on the left (where the great man made his blunder) then move left again to easy ground and graze-a-way to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown (aid on p2) mid 1950 FFA. Pete WIlliams, John Amies 1963.
Ticklists
An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tom Barnett | 9 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Did P2, then reclimbed P1. Horrid experience. Very overgrown and loose, with a weirdly angled ramp making up the majority of the climbing, followed by a shaky traverse over grassy footholds. The stance is bombproof, but P2 continues the theme of steepness and grass, honestly horrid, unless you like being gripped | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Did P2, then reclimbed P1. Horrid experience. Very overgrown and loose, with a weirdly angled ramp making up the majority of the climbing, followed by a shaky traverse over grassy footholds. The stance is bombproof, but P2 continues the theme of steepness and grass, honestly horrid, unless you like being gripped |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Inverted V
Grade: VS 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)