Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
Fine climbing up thin cracks splitting the central white wall.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb to the thin crack and follow it with difficulty until it is possible to move right to a small ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 14m. Climb up then left into the hanging groove and bridge up this to easy ground. © Rockfax
FA. Rod Leeming (aid) 1950s, FFA. (almost) Tom Proctor, Keith Myhill (1 point) 1969 Direct Finish Phil Burke Keith Myhill 1978 1955.
Ticklists
Peak Rock/10/White Life , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| chrishamper | 22 Apr, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Actualy I did the direct finish first. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Actualy I did the direct finish first. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Demon Rib
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Black Rocks)