UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

34m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Fine climbing up thin cracks splitting the central white wall.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb to the thin crack and follow it with difficulty until it is possible to move right to a small ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 14m. Climb up then left into the hanging groove and bridge up this to easy ground. © Rockfax

FA. Rod Leeming (aid) 1950s, FFA. (almost) Tom Proctor, Keith Myhill (1 point) 1969 Direct Finish Phil Burke Keith Myhill 1978 1955.

Ticklists

Peak Rock/10/White Life , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
chrishamper 22 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Actualy I did the direct finish first.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Actualy I did the direct finish first.

Logged Ascents

41 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Dovedale

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 5 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 7
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Remembering Theo

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Eldon Hole)

Loading Notifications...