UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

42m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5b, 22m. Battle up the slippery and strenuous groove to where the angle eases, then move up right to the hanging chimney of The Claw. Climb up this to a ledge on the left.
2) 4c, 20m. As for The Claw. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The prominent smooth groove.
1) 5b, 22m. Follow the groove until the angle eases and then move right into the chimney. Climb this to a stance on the left.
2) 4c, 20m. Follow the diagonal fault rightwards to the ridge.

J.Street 1966.

Ticklists

BMC On-Peak Rock: Esoterica , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak

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High E2
Mid E2
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 3
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Moyer's Buttress

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gardom's Edge)

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