UKC

38m.

Rockfax Description
One of the best routes in the dale - a big pitch, steep sustained and in a superb situation. Several old pegs remain though plenty of more modern alternatives are available. Climb straight up the tricky fingery wall into the base of the slanting fault of John Peel. Follow this until it starts to lean to the right and awkward, exposed moves can be made out onto the face on the left. Climb steeply into the long crack and then follow it all the way to the cliff top. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Read, Rod Leeming, D Carnell, P Brown, S Hunt mid (A2) 1950s FFA. Paul Nunn Jeff Morgan (well almost - 2 pts) 1969 1955.

Ticklists

Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, The Peak: Past and Present, World Graded List, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Definitive *** Peak Lime

Feedback

User Date Notes
midgets of the world unite 24 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I think the combination of Topo and description makes the start of this route hard to identify. If I understand correctly, it actually starts up a faint groove/crackline immediately right of the tree in the gully.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think the combination of Topo and description makes the start of this route hard to identify. If I understand correctly, it actually starts up a faint groove/crackline immediately right of the tree in the gully.
MNA123 12 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Fell off polished move about 4 metres up smacked off big tree and sprained ankle,stupid gay route,i hate polished limestone :(
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fell off polished move about 4 metres up smacked off big tree and sprained ankle,stupid gay route,i hate polished limestone :(
Chris the Tall 16 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome!! Crux is low down (jct with JP) and a long reach helps clipping the 2nd peg, but the route is really sustained that reaching the summit is really satisfying.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome!! Crux is low down (jct with JP) and a long reach helps clipping the 2nd peg, but the route is really sustained that reaching the summit is really satisfying.
John Alcock 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great fun. I placed about 20 runners.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great fun. I placed about 20 runners.
Simonjudge 14 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Check no one is below you - a bit of dodgy rock around. Cracking route though, not that pumpy at all since plenty of rests.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Check no one is below you - a bit of dodgy rock around. Cracking route though, not that pumpy at all since plenty of rests.
GrahamD 14 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent, sustained but not desperate. As of 13/3/2005 there was an owl nesting halfway up the final groove, near the remains of the bush.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent, sustained but not desperate. As of 13/3/2005 there was an owl nesting halfway up the final groove, near the remains of the bush.

Logged Ascents

306 users have logged this
63 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 63
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 62
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Promontory Traverse

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Black Rocks)
Loading Notifications...