A wandering classic, taking a long diagonal line and giving strenuous but well-protected climbing with good rests.
1) 5a, 25m. From a large tree in the gully, trend left to reach the base of the crack (junction with George) then climb it as it leans over. Traverse right and climb up to a stance with some fixed gear.
2) 5a, 8m. Continue in the same line and then move up past the old yew tree to a fixed belay on tree above. It is possible to keep traversing rightwards and the first section is good but it rapidly deteriorates and descent becomes tricky although you might be able to get to a solid young tree. © Rockfax
FA. Pete (Trog) WIlliams, John (who peeled) Amies 1964.
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