UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

24m.

Rockfax Description
Worth seeking out. Climb up and right to enter the right-hand of the parallel cracks. Finish up this by sustained climbing. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Read, Ron? Leeming, D Carnell, P Brown, S Hunt 1956.

Ticklists

Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Peak District Pinnacles

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tom265 2 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Currently a Peregrine? I think nesting in the niche just left of the route. Saw some eggs, best to avoid silicon area for a bit. (Only south gully buttress listed as bird banned in RAD)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Currently a Peregrine? I think nesting in the niche just left of the route. Saw some eggs, best to avoid silicon area for a bit. (Only south gully buttress listed as bird banned in RAD)
AlistairBerridge 22 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Cut away some of the ab that as looked manky, added some new cord although plenty still there
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cut away some of the ab that as looked manky, added some new cord although plenty still there
Fiend 12 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Solid VS 4c getting into the crack (and that's from someone who is pretty comfy with VS and cracks), strenuous to protect that bit. The start is the usual limestone grassy shit but the finish is pretty neat.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Solid VS 4c getting into the crack (and that's from someone who is pretty comfy with VS and cracks), strenuous to protect that bit. The start is the usual limestone grassy shit but the finish is pretty neat.
Dave Garnett 10 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Surprisingly good, although not all that easy for the grade. Safe with careful gear placement (back up that peg!)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Surprisingly good, although not all that easy for the grade. Safe with careful gear placement (back up that peg!)
CragHead 24 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely Route, nice and easy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely Route, nice and easy.

Logged Ascents

338 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Dovedale

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 55 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 76
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 70
Votes cast 65
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Christmas Crack

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)

Loading Notifications...