UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrines nests:

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

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Last update: 04/04/2023  

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24m.

Rockfax Description
The soaring groove is the main feature of this side of The Church. Bridge up it, passing the bulge on the left, to reach ledges complete with belay/abseil pegs. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Williams, John Amies 1963.

Ticklists

Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , World Graded List , Peak Rock/10/White Life , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
PaulJepson 28 May Show βeta
βeta: Can the next party up please take a couple metres of tat. The abseil is in a bad state and I used the only tat I had to equalise the 2 old pegs so we could ab off the back into the gully. The extension to abseil back down Snakes Alive is a single strand of very old dyneema and will get someone killed. 4 or 5 metres will do because it wants to go around the big block. 		βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can the next party up please take a couple metres of tat. The abseil is in a bad state and I used the only tat I had to equalise the 2 old pegs so we could ab off the back into the gully. The extension to abseil back down Snakes Alive is a single strand of very old dyneema and will get someone killed. 4 or 5 metres will do because it wants to go around the big block.
JHicks 20 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 2 birdnests on route (1 jackdaw, 1 unknown). Should probably be bird banned! 		βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 2 birdnests on route (1 jackdaw, 1 unknown). Should probably be bird banned!
JHicks 15 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 2 birdnests on route (1 jackdaw, 1 unknown). Should probably be bird banned! 		βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 2 birdnests on route (1 jackdaw, 1 unknown). Should probably be bird banned!

Logged Ascents

158 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Dovedale

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Peak Limestone Cover
Peak Limestone (2020)
Rockfax
By Alan James, Chris Craggs
Peak Limestone - South Cover
Peak Limestone - South (2018)
British Mountaineering Council
By BMC
Guidebook correction for this climb
81 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 30
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 27
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
High Neb Buttress - gritstone VS's don't get much better.
High Neb Buttress

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage North)

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