Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrines nests:
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
Excellent steep and sequency climbing. Climb the wall to a good hold under the roof. Move left on good pockets then power up desperately to the good hold on Arch Enemies. Only the crux of the crux of Arch Enemies remains to the finishing jug. © Rockfax
Jon Clark Jun/2010.
Ticklists
Definitive *** Peak Lime , Steep UK Sport Routes , Vengeance , Short King's Queen Lines
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
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The Ogre
Grade: 8a ***
(Chee Dale Lower)