UKC

24m.

Rockfax Description
An interesting aid route exiting the smaller left-hand cave, including a bit of downhill climbing to pass the lip. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This route is in dangerous condition,it needs rebolting as the bolts are very old.

Ticklists

Aid climbing

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User Date Notes
Mike Hood 2 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: First bold is missing a nut. There is a thread above the hole, you can sling this and lean out from to clip the next bolt, which is good. Some of the bolts are quite old, and others are covered in calcite, but look okay. There is a big reach down to the bolt on the underside of the lowest point of the arch. I swung out to this from the foot of my etrier, before releasing it using the pull-cord on my fifi hook. This meant a heavy drop onto the next, bolt which is quite old. There is a huge gap between the last bolt and the lower off. It would be possible to free-climb this, but it's quite steep. I did an extra aid move from a good skyhook before reaching the tree. It might be possible to lasso the tree with a length of rope instead.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First bold is missing a nut. There is a thread above the hole, you can sling this and lean out from to clip the next bolt, which is good. Some of the bolts are quite old, and others are covered in calcite, but look okay. There is a big reach down to the bolt on the underside of the lowest point of the arch. I swung out to this from the foot of my etrier, before releasing it using the pull-cord on my fifi hook. This meant a heavy drop onto the next, bolt which is quite old. There is a huge gap between the last bolt and the lower off. It would be possible to free-climb this, but it's quite steep. I did an extra aid move from a good skyhook before reaching the tree. It might be possible to lasso the tree with a length of rope instead.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Dovedale

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Voting
High A2+
Mid A2+
Low A2+
High A2
Mid A2
Low A2
High A1+
Mid A1+
Low A1+
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Middle Stump

Grade: A2 ***
(Dovedale)

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