UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

16m.

Rockfax Description
Start as for Police and Thieves, but continue up an awkward little groove until a ledge on the right can be gained. Climb the wall leftwards to undercuts, then sprint up the final wall to reach a good tree. Possibly retro-bolted at 6c although the bolts may be removed. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Possibly a retro bolted sport climb now with 4 bolts and a BB

John Codling, Dave Wiggin 1974.

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Enchanted Nightmare

Grade: 6c ***
(Blue Lagoon Quarry)

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