UKC

Climbs 139
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 385m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Little known classic © Phil Sneyd

Crag features

A ramshackle rambling quarry where three good areas guard the suicidally tottering towers of the main and mighty Dovestones Quarry, from where many routes are tumbling their way towards Greenfield. The three, the Lower Left Quarry, the Waterfall Area, and the Lower Right Quarry, all hold fine routes and are worth visits on nice summer evenings.

Good route descriptions here.

Approach notes

From the parking by the dam, take the track around the lake and follow the short path that branches diagonally through the trees and up into the quarry.

Access Advice

There was a large rockfall in May 2006, routes around Titan Groove and Tower of Bable have been effected. The area still contains loose rock - caution is strongly advised.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to the Central Quarry and Waterfall Area of Dovestones Quarry during the above dates (the lower left and lower right quarries are fine to access year round however).

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Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Moorland Gritstone - Chew Valley (1988)

Out of print:
Western Grit (2003)
A complete guide (including the unstable parts of the central quarry) can be downloaded from the BMC website. https://thebmc.co.uk/downloads/Rock%20Climbing/Guidebooks I'd recommend taking a copy of this (or of the old edition) on any visits, as 2 or 3 routes have been unaccountably omitted from the Lower Left Quarry section of the new guide, and some of the descriptions have been shortened to the extent that you can't easily work out where the routes go.
Simon Caldwell - 03/Jun/13
The quarry is getting rather overgrown in places and some routes are being lost to the vegetation, shame really as its a great location.
Alex Thompson - 13/Apr/07
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Climbs at this crag

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