East of the main tor summit and just uphill from the Dragonfly boulder, is a 3m face split halfway by a wide break and with an undercut bottom right corner.
Creamface goes up the centre of the face aiming for a shallow side pull high on the right. Probably at least f6B. The left arete is easier.
Creamface goes up the centre of the face aiming for a shallow side pull high on the right. Probably at least f6B. The left arete is easier.
A Webber 30/Jun/2019.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| apwebber | 19 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: Beta used for FA. A deep hand jam with the right hand into the break on the far right of the face, right foot on a small slopey foothold (but reasonably good) under that jam. Left foot on a very small bad foot hold and left hand in the break above that. From this position slap up left and high to a crimp rail. Get the left foot higher on a good hold and slap up right to the side pull. Sort feet and top out using a jug that is just a little reach over the top (and may have plants in - remove them or use them!). There are some bad crimps on the face above the break that could be used to vary the starting position but I found the above to work best. Grade would be very dependent on reach with this method. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Beta used for FA. A deep hand jam with the right hand into the break on the far right of the face, right foot on a small slopey foothold (but reasonably good) under that jam. Left foot on a very small bad foot hold and left hand in the break above that. From this position slap up left and high to a crimp rail. Get the left foot higher on a good hold and slap up right to the side pull. Sort feet and top out using a jug that is just a little reach over the top (and may have plants in - remove them or use them!). There are some bad crimps on the face above the break that could be used to vary the starting position but I found the above to work best. Grade would be very dependent on reach with this method. |
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| chudders1 | 7 Nov, 2021 |
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βeta: Really good problem can be done couple of different ways which may adjust grade but definitely worth searching out | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Really good problem can be done couple of different ways which may adjust grade but definitely worth searching out |
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Route of Interest
Best of Both Worlds
Grade: f6A ***
(Honeybag Tor)