UKC

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This is the imposing ramp/crack-line that runs across the right wall of the canyon. There are more trad routes to the right on this block. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Description:
This is a 100% natural line that appears on the right half of Konefti rock. It can be climbed and secured fully with natural gear. As a typical crack it can take a lot of gear without any run-out. Therefore, it should remain as such. No need for permanent gear. It must remain pure.
Ascent:
For repeating this route, you should need trad gear, from very small size, small size to medium size (up to No.5 DMM dragon / No.3 B.D. Camalot).
Konefti rock splits in two main rocks. At the NW of the Konefti rocks, there is a split of the rocks forming 2 vertical walls, 3 meters apart and 25 tall. The line is 100% natural covering diagonally the south wall. It begins at a crack which is 3 meters from the ground, leaning to the left and reaching up on a ledge, just on the corner of the rock. The starting is below the crack feature, on a slightly overhanging face with few but good holds to help you reach the base of the crack and place your first gear (already 3 meters from the ground!). This first part should be taken very seriously and the belayer should provide good spotting to the leader. Then climbing up on the ledge brings the leader to rest and comfortable standing position. The first belay station is set just above your head, standing on the ledge (10 meters). Then, the route follows the prominent crack feature that continues up and diagonally to the left all the way to the top, covering most of the north side of the rock. There is an amount of exposure at a couple of points and at the fantastic exit, but well protected in all cases.
After the exit to the top-left, you will see the permanent station of an existing sport-route (two Raumer Europe openable biners) two meters on your left, at the same height. This is the station for the second pitch (25meters). Move on easy ground to reach it and secure yourself. Don’t forget to protect the traverse for the second.

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