Altitude 61m a.s.l
Onich Parking © arose
aka "Onich Slabs"
Onich Gorge is used by Glencoe Outdoor Centre, other outdoor providers and independent instructors and climbers, mostly for teaching climbing. At present the climbing is on a 25m high slab at grid reference NN 026 619. Two lines have been bolted and have a chain lower-off part way up the crag. There are four chain lower-offs at the top of the crag and a series of concreted stakes just back from the edge at the top. The climbing is quite straightforward (about V.Diff.) and the crag is very useful as a teaching venue.
The rock is very hard quartzite with good edges and ledges but no natural protection. People have climbed here with crampons and ice axes (dry tooling) with little impact on the rock. There is scope for further climbing in the gorge.
There are some harder routes recorded in a guidebook somewhere but now lost to the undergrowth.
Please park at the chapel close to the Onich Hotel (NN 031 614). See access issues
Parking is a sensitive issue. Please park at the chapel close to the Onich Hotel (NN 031614). Walk along the pavement and up the short track to the crag. The track is signed to Inchree. Be respectful of local houseowners. There is a stile over the fence on the right leading to the top of the crag about 300m up the track from the gate. There is a path down to the bottom to the left of the crag as you look at it but it is often better to base yourself at the top since the bottom is very wet. Glencoe Outdoor Centre is the most common user of the crag in the summer and it would courteous to phone them (Debbie) to ask if they have a group using the crag (01855 811350). Colin Campbell (owner of the top of the crag through the common grazing) is agreeable to climbing and work being carried out on the crag. The ownership of the crag itself is not clear and the common grazing’s concern is for the welfare of the animals. Fences must be kept intact and the animals must not be disturbed. Scottish Natural Heritage was consulted before bolting was carried out due the site being in a SSSI. Their advice is that there is no adverse impact on the site’s features and therefore no consent is required to carry out the work, including some cleaning of the crag and the installation of belay anchors at the top of the crag. Please be careful not to damage any trees in the process. Thanks go to Alan Halewood, Ali Rose, Vertical Descents, Glencoe Outdoor Centre, West Highland College and Abacus Mountain Guides for financial contributions towards the bolts.
|The recorded routes further right are now massively overgrown and would require gardening on an industrial scale.
Please note: although certain providers use this as a practice crag for crampon work, it should not be seen as a dry-tooling venue as the gentle angle makes axes superfluous. Please also park at the shop at Onich, not next to the house at the bottom of the track.
Jamie B - 01/Mar/09
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