Climbs 20
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 316m a.s.l
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FA of A Feast for Croes © Stingraypoindex

Crag features

A collection of good sized schist boulders in a pleasant, open situation, just off the walkers path that follows the old drovers route over Bealach Dubh-lic, between Glen Croe and Lochgoilhead . Good landings and decent underfoot conditions by Croe standards i.e. it's not a bog. Most things of interest are within a 100m radius of the prominent Croe's Nest block.

Currently only a few cleaned lines, but lots to go at from 4s to 7s, with maybe, maybe, a couple of harder ones. Ab rope and stiff brushes, etc advisable. However the rock is generally sound, good quality schist. Most of the lines shouldn't need a huge amount of gardening.

By the first trio of boulders there is a pleasant grassy area if pitching for the night was so desired.

More boulders to the south, unexplored.

Dubh-lic Bouldering mini-guide, courtesy of Stewart Cable

Approach notes

Ample parking for the Ben Donich hill access just off the B828 a few hundred meters past the Rest and Be Thankful car park. Follow the undulating forestry track back into Glen Croe, keeping to the upper track at a split after 1km. Around 2.5km look out for a signed, well made, walkers path on the right, follow this for a stiff 5 minute pull to get above the tree line. Main collection of boulders close on the right (north of path). About 40 minutes walking from car, but the going is easy, no bush or bog bashing.

Usual tactic is to take a bike and a couple of mats. From the car park it's mainly down hill to the start of the walkers path in 10 mins where bikes can be stashed, then 5 mins walk up the steep path. 

Brilliant venue, huge number of potential new problems.
lightninwolf32 - 09/Jul/22
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