Turn of the A82 at Dumbarton opposite the Abbotsford hotel and drive up to the highest point of a small housing estate. Cross a stile and walk across fields and up through woods to gain the crag which can be seen peeking above the trees.
#2024: Active Ravens nest at the foot of Voodoo Magic, occupied 10/04/24 with small chicks. Out of consideration it's advised not to climb at Dumbuck until mid-May......
Rockfax Description
10m. The classic of the crag. Powerful moves lead to the obvious spiky jug. A hard move from a sloper gains easier climbing and the amazing ‘thank god' finishing jug. Most take the 2nd bolt pre-clipped. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Move steeply up to a jug at half height, make a hard move off a sloping pinch to gain better holds. 10m.
Andy Gallagher.
90's Bolted Hardcore - Andy Gallagher Essentials Collection , 3* Scottish Sport Climbs , Steep UK Sport Routes , Lowland Outcrops *** (Trad and Sport)
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Fraser | 12 Nov, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Unfortunately, the large, final jug is no more. While I was working the moves on TR, it suddenly fell past me narrowly missing my belayer and disappeared down the steep slope at the base of the crag. In the gap left by the jug, there remains a small edge which could be used to clip the l/o but I suspect the route is now noticeably harder. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Unfortunately, the large, final jug is no more. While I was working the moves on TR, it suddenly fell past me narrowly missing my belayer and disappeared down the steep slope at the base of the crag. In the gap left by the jug, there remains a small edge which could be used to clip the l/o but I suspect the route is now noticeably harder. |
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